Talk Story... Stories, Thoughts, News

I have been surfing a lot the past few weeks. Recently I traded a piece of art work with a friend of mine for a custom nose rider surf board, the same classic style I grew up on. Growing up in Hawaii, there were days I remember staying out in the water all day. These were the days before 30 SPF sunscreen, leashes for your board, and shark warning signs. We would find a ride, (only a few of us had cars) chip in on some gas money, and load our surf boards onto the roof rack. After an all day surf session we would go to Kelly’s Diner for a bowl of fifty cent rice and brown gravy, (we ate nothing but slop in those days). While living in Texas, I put surfing aside for many years. When I finally moved back to Hawaii I was a little apprehensive about getting back in the water. I was not sure if it was like riding a bike, (I was surfer of the year in high school and had a reputation to maintain). I went out anyway despite my fears. Surfing was not how I had remembered. It seemed to be more hard work than fun that day. The next day my shoulders and neck were sore, my ribs hurt, and I felt a little discouraged. Then a day or two goes by and I start to get that itch. I was hooked again. Now I am back in the water every day, (if not every other day). I am back to my previous surfing form, well almost, and having as much fun as I ever. So if there is something you want to accomplish, maybe even get back into something you were once passionate about, don’t hesitate. Dive into it, you will be glad you did.